Genghis Khan’s Mausoleum (Chengjisihan ling), built in 1954, is the biggest attraction in this part of Inner Mongolia. Despite disputes over its authenticity, the Mausoleum attracts thousands of visitors every month, and has been elevated to the status of a holy site.

The truth surrounding the death and subsequent burial of Genghis Khan is at present shrouded in mystery. It is known that Genghis was killed in a nearby area and that the people charged with burying and guarding the warlord were later also to move here. Many believe that the real tomb is in fact to be found in the Republic of Mongolia, somewhere in the mountains around Ulan Bator. There is a legend that says that the cortege that were delivering the body to the north, were stuck in mud near the town of Dongsheng, and so decided to bury him on the spot, although this is possibly just Chinese propaganda…

Either way the Chinese have gone to great lengths to protect both the legend and the relics within the tomb. During World War II, the Japanese attempted to continue extending their influence in northern China by expanding their Manchukuo Puppet State into the Inner & Outer Mongolian regions. The Japanese were hoping, with both the control of this tomb and a very tenuous legend that stated that Genghis had come from over the sea (possibly Japan), to be welcomed by the Mongolians. The Chinese and Mongolians were quick however, and managed to move much of the tomb’s relics to Qinghai. The Japanese took Inner Mongolia, but were repulsed by a joint Mongol-Soviet force from taking Outer Mongolia in 1939.

With the communist proclamation of victory in 1950, the relics were returned to this area, and were eventually housed in the mausoleum that was completed in 1954. The building was seriously destroyed by Red Guards in the Cultural Revolution (1966-76), and after many years restoration, the site now looks extremely modern. The main structure is of three Mongolian-yurt-like halls, each interlinked with corridors. The halls are filled with various mementos to the bygone era of Mongolian dominance, with the Khan’s war clothing, various ceremonial yurts that are supposedly filled with the biers of Khan and his relatives, altars, frescoes depicting the warlord and his horse-drawn army and various Mongolian calligraphy works. There is also a small museum near the ticket office.

Ceremonies dedicated to Genghis Khan and the cult that has grown up around him take place four times a year, in the third, fifth, ninth and tenth lunar months (the lunar months are usually about one to one and a half months later than the Gregorian calendar, although you will need to ask locally near the time). The ceremonies are attended by various Mongol monks, some from the Republic of Mongolia, and various peoples of the Daur Minority. Most of the ceremony takes place in the main hall, that houses a five meter-high statue of Genghis, and rites include the burning of butter lamps, chanting from “holy” Mongolian scriptures and the presentation of a whole roast lamb. Outside Mongolians take part in traditional horse racing, archery, and wrestling, as a means of showing respect to their powerful ancestor.

How to get there: There are a few ways to get to the mausoleum. From Baotou, buses leave the long distance bus station for Dongsheng (RMB17, 3.5hrs.). From Dongsheng buses then run on to the Mausoleum (RMB8, 1.5 hrs.). There are only a few Dongsheng-Mausoleum buses a day so it is worth getting to Dongsheng before noon. If you miss these buses then it is possible to catch a bus to Yijin huoluo qi, 25km from the Mausoleum and then catch a minibus on from there. It is also possible to catch the bus from Baotou to Yulin City in Shaanxi, getting off at the Mausoleum (RMB25, 5hrs.).
Return is best done via Dongsheng. Minibuses can be flagged down from the Mausoleum. From Dongsheng the last bus back to Baotou departs at 8pm.
Hotels: There are a number of places to stay in Dongsheng. Cheapest of the lot is the Ih Ju League Hotel (Yike zhaomeng binguan, Tel: 0477-8321567) on E’erduosi jie, at the intersection with Dala’te lu. Also cheap is the Minzu Hotel (Minzu fandian, Tel: 0477-8323269) on Hangjin lu, at the intersection with E’erduosi jie. Top of the range is the Tianjiao Hotel (Tianjiao dajiudian, Tel: 0477-8333888) in the south of the city, on Dala’te nanlu.
It is also possible to stay in yurts at the Mausoleum’s Genghis Khan’s Hotel, especially good if you are in a small group.
Opening hours: 9am-5pm.
Cost: RMB25.