For Western-style cafes with the usual run of set meals and flesh brews, try Zhiwei Kafi, Niupai, near the Xinhua bookstore on Wuyi Dadao; the Shang dao, west of the Civil Aviation hotel; or the above-average Ludao Kafei Guan near the Cai’e Lu/Wuyi Dadao intersection. There’s also the New Mario cake shop, outside the Sanjiu Chunyun hotel, which has biscuits, cakes, sponges, and Portuguese-style baked costars tarts. For unknown reasons, tropical betel nut (the areca pan’s stimulating seed pod) is a popular pick-me-up here, sold either boiled and sliced for chewing, or powdered in cigarettes.

Beijing Jiaozi Guan Wuyi Dadao. As the name suggests, jiaozi are what to order here, and they come with various meat and vegetable fillings - beef is best. The decor is army mess-hall, with forcibly intimate long wooden benches and tables -this is somewhere to fill your belly rather than dine.

Chaozhou Caiguan Wuyi Dadae. Big, mid-range southern Chinese restaurant with a bias towards seafood.

Dong Lai Shun Wuyi Dadao. Muslim restaurant specializing in lamb hotpot served with pickled garlic dip; their meat is meticulously selected and pretty tasty.

Fire Palace There are at least two branches of this riotously good restaurant: on Shaoshan Lu (bus #7, #202 or #104 from outside the train station), and Wuyi Dadao. The original on Shaoshan Lu is the best, and a busier, noisier, and more thoroughly enjoyable place to wolf down Humanize. Food would be hard to imagine. Get an order card off the waitress, request some dark Baisha beer, and stop trolleys loaded with small plates of goodie as they pass - you could eat here a dozen times and not get through the selection. Stay off the a la carte menu and you’ll only pay RMB2-12 a plate at either branch.

Juyuan Jiujia Eastern end of Wuyi Dadao. A friendly restaurant specializing in river food, though it also has some original meat dishes - try wuxiang (five-spiced) beef, where thin slices of meat are stir-fried with garlic, chili, ginger, onion and whole cumin seeds.

Xinhua Lou Eastern end of Wuyi Dadao. Another excellent place for local dishes, with trolleys of smoked tofu and meats, crisp cold vegetables dressed in sesame oil, black-skinned-chicken soup, preserved eggs, and a huge range or dumplings being wheeled around between 6.30am and 2am. RMB2-10 a dish.

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