The Pule Si (Temple of Universal Happiness;Y25), fartber north, was built in 1766 by Qianlong as a place for Mongol envoys to worship, and its style is an odd mix of Hah and Lamaist elements. The Lamaist back section, a triple- tiered terrace and hall, with a flamboyantly conical roof and lively, curved sur- faces, steals the show fi-om the more sober, squarer Hah architecture at the front. The ceiling of the back hall is a wood and gold confection to rival the Temple of Heaven in Beijing. Glowing at its centre is a mandala of Samvara, a Tantric deity, in tbe form of a cross. The altar beneatb bolds a Buddha of Happiness, a life-size copper image of sexual congress. More cosmic sex is depicted in two beautiful mandalas hanging outside. In the courtyard, prayer flags flutter while prayer wheels sit empty and unturned. Just north of the tem- ple is the path that leads to Sledgehammer Rock, and the cable car .

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