With its predilection for dog meat and chilies, Guizhou’s cuisine comes under the Western Chinese cooking umbrella, and the capital has some good places to eat local food. Nondescript restaurants on Zhonghua Zhong Lu and inter- setting streets all serve staples such as hot-spiced chicken, pork, vegetables and dumplings through the day, with snack stalls along Heqing Lu running from 6pm to 4am. One specialty are thin crepes - here called tianliao wawa ,or “stuffed dolls”- which you fill from a selection of pickled and fresh vegetables to resemble an uncooked spring roll, with the best places just outside Qiangling Shah Park.

Beijing Duck Ruijin Lu, near the Jiaoyuan hotel. Overlooking the river, this place isn’t too expensive - about RMB80 a person for a full duck - serving exactly what you’d expect from the name.

Goubuli Zunyi Lu. Branch of the famous Tianjin dumpling house, hidden away behind stalls near the train station - there’s no English sign. Good, filling, cheap and noisy.

Jue Yuan Sucai Guan 51 Fushu[ Bei Lu. Vegetarian temple restaurant in the town centre (the temple is out the back), whose food is liberally Laced with chilies. There’s no English menu, but the staff will help you order; dishes are around RMB10 or less.

Lao Pengyou Kafei Ting Belling Lu. Despite calling it self a cafe, the place concentrates on inexpensive, Cantonese-style sandpits and local hot- pots. Useful if you’re in the area for the museum. Though not worth a special visit.

Nantianmen Corner of Xihu Lu and Huancheng Lu. Popular Sichuanese-style hotpot restaurant, with set selections starting at RMB35.

Norway Forest Xihu Lu. One of Guiyang’s many Western-style cafes, this snug place features (expensive) gourmet coffee, beer and snacks.

Yixin Yuan Xihu Lu. A smart, very popular mid- range restaurant near the river and Jiaxiu Leu. The manageress is friendly and speaks some English, and the food is extremely good, from snacks such as stir-fried potato shreds, crisp-tried sprats in vinegar, and cornmeal steamed in lotus leaves, through to cold sliced meats, noodles or shuijiao with dipping sauces, and dried ham and gingko nuts. Zima gaming is another Guizhou specialty you’ll find here: a large, circular, bread-like sweet cake.

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