The highest concentration of restaurants are in the old quarter alongJiefang Lu, with grilled chicken wings, kebabs and other snacks sold outside the cine- ma and in the market east off Xinhua Lu.

Anciently of Noodle Refection Jiefang Lu. You’ll come here for the name, and stay for the cheap and tasty noodles, dumplings and baozi.

Coco wind At the Haikou Binguan. Best of the hotel restaurants for local favorites, including steamed chicken in coconut milk, and seafood rolls in coconut sauce. Not too expensive either - a whole chicken or duck costs around RMB60, with other dishes starting at RMB20.

Guanghai Canting Jiefang Lu. Locals-oriented tea- house with tiled floor, dated wooden furniture and great dim sum.

Haikou Fandian Xinhua Lu, just north of Jiefang Lu on the west side, and signed in Chinese. Hainan’s famous dishes dished up in authentically noisy, busy surroundings; Wenchang chicken is RMB25 a serving, with duck a steal at RMB30 per bird.

Japanese Floor 3, Tailongcheng building, DatongLu. Sushi at RMB5-10 per plate, with set one-dish meals from RMB20.

Kuaihuolin Next door to the Haiyang hotel, Jichang Dong Lu. Plates of Cantonese roast meats and steamed chicken, Sichuan’s cold spiced noodles, preserved eggs, and pickles wheeled around on trolleys for you to point and choose. They also have more complex dishes such se twice-cooked fish, and an English menu to boot Smart and inexpensive -two can eat well for RMB20-30.

Shuihe Doujiang Dawang Jichang Dong Lo. Open 24hr for excellent shujiao, rice packets, and soya milk in fast-food-cafe surroundings.

Xianzong Lin Jiefang Lu. A cute place with swings instead of chairs and a Western -Chinese menu which includes pizza and some weird cold drinks - black sesame-seed milkshakes for one.

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To see more information about China .