Manzhouli, about 70km west of Hailar, is a miniscule city with a population of around 150,000 and an area of 696 square kilometers. The town lies on the Sino-Russian border, giving it a lively feel that is especially interesting in this far corner of Communist China. This is a place for hardy travellers, entrepreneurial Russians and bartering Chinese, most trying to thrive on cross border trade.

At one time an even smaller town that acted as gateway between the Cold War’s two greatest communist powers, Manzhouli expanded with the collapse of the former Soviet Union and the gradual stabilization of the relations that had been tense in the Mao and early Deng years. By the early to mid 1990s many Russians began to flock over the border, helped by the Trans-Siberian railway line that was built by them over a century ago. At present the most popular venue in town is the Sino-Russian Frontier Trade Market (Zhong’e hushi maoyiqu), that is frequently flooded by tall, white faced Russians after goods or kuai. Not far from the market, the new conditions of the two countries are no better illustrated than by the border gates. The imposing Chinese gate (Guomen), standing 30 meters high and 40 meters wide, reminds you of your location with seven large Chinese characters proclaiming the “People’s Republic of China” (Zhonghua renmin gonghe guo), while at a distance the Russian gate stands, with its lacklustre golden words bearing the unchanged letters “CCCP” (Union of Soviet Socialist Republics).

It was the large coal and mineral deposits that were one of the main reasons that this remote outpost became a major stop on the Trans-Siberian railroad that links Beijing and Moscow. Open pit mines still remain active, despite the heavy Russian extraction that marked the last century in the city. Much Russian influence can be found in the nearby town of Zalainou’er, where there is both a Russian-developed, open mine and many of the steam locomotives that make train enthusiasts enthusiastic. Within the city, other Russian influence, apart from the many Russians themselves, is in the restaurants, many of which serve standard Russian fare, and in the architecture, both traditional and Soviet, that is scattered about.

It is not just the town, however, that makes this an interesting stopover point. The area around Manzhouli is one of China’s most untouched regions, with verdant grasslands, lushly vegetated woodlands and huge numbers of wildlife. There are two massive lakes that lie to the south, the nearer and more popular Hulun Lake, and the smaller Beier Lake that reaches into the Republic of Mongolia. This is a great place for hiking and getting away from it all, although you may have already experienced this just getting here.

How to get there: The best way to get to Manzhouli from Hailar is by train (Train 4173 10:42-14:27 or Train T439 7:23-9:56). Leaving Manzhouli for Hailar there are also two trains (Train T440 15:50-18:37 or Train K626 9:30-12:24). It is also possible to get off the Trans-Siberian in Manzhouli, from either Moscow or Beijing once a week.
Since the city is compact enough to be covered mostly on foot, it is not necessary for you to take a taxi to the center of town, rather, simple walk for no more than 15 minutes.
Cost: RMB5 for access to the Chinese Gate.
Attention: This is a rough and tumble town and the local PSB is quick to warn against staying out after dark. Robberies are apparently rife! In the markets hard bartering is also expected.