Aberdeen is the largest separate town on Hong Kong Island, with a popula- tion of more than sixty thousand, a dwindling minority of whom still live on sampans and junks in the narrow harbour - and typhoon shelter - that lies between the main island and the island of Ap Lei Chau. The boat people who live here are following a tradition that certainly preceded the arrival of the British in Hong Kong, though, sadly, it now seems that their ancient way of life is facing extinction. In the meantime, a time-honoured and enjoyable tourist activity in Aberdeen is to take a tour around the harbour on one of the sur- viving sampans.
You won’t get lost in Aberdeen. From the bus stop just head in the direction 0fthe shore and cross over the main road using the footbridge, where women will be waiting to solicit your custom for a sampan tour. Either do a deal with one of these private entrepreneurs, or walk along the ornamental park by the waterfront until you reach a sign advertising “Water Tours” ($50 per head for a thirty-minute ride, irrespective of the number oftravellers).Thc trip offers great photo opportunities of the old houseboats jammed together, conaplete with dogs, drying laundry and outdoor kitchens, as well as endless rags, nets and oId tyres. Along the way you’ll also pass boat yards and the three floating restaurants, which are especially spectacular when lit up at night (though they are really better for admiring from the outside than for eating in; see “Eating, drinking and nightlife.
To reach Aberdeen, catch bus #70M or #970 from Exchange Square, in Central (15man) or Adnfiralty bus terminus (20min).There’s also a boat con- nection between here and nearby Lamina Island
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