The low-lying area extending inland from the shore south of Wan Chai and Causeway Bay and known as Happy Valley (or Pau Ma Dei) really means only one thing for the people of Hong Kong: horse racing, or, more precisely, gambling. The Happy Valley Racecourse, which dates back to 1846, was for most of Hong Kong’s history the only one in the territory, until a second course was built at Sha Tin in the New Territories. Hong Kong is gripped by serious gambling fever during the racing season, which runs from September until June, with meetings once or twice a week at Happy Valley. If you’re interested in witnessing Hong Kong at its rawest and most grasping, entrance to the public enclosure is just $10 with races almost every Wednesday. Otherwise, enquire at HKTB about their “Come Horse-racing Tour” ($490), which includes transportation to and from the track, entry to the Members’ Enclosure and a buffet meal at the official Jockey Club - and tips on how to pick a winner. Happy Valley can be reached from Central or Causeway Bay on a spur of the tram- line, or on bus #1 from Central.
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