The low-lying area extending inland from the shore south of Wan Chai and Causeway Bay and known as HappyValley (or Pan Ma Del) really means only one thing for the people of Hong Kong: horse racing, or, more precisely, gambling. The HappyValley Racecourse, which dates back to 1846, was for mostof Hong Kong’s history the

only one in the territory, until a second course was kilt at Sha Tin in the NewTerritories. HongKong is gripped by serious gambling fever during the racing season, which runs from September until June, with meetings once or twice a week at HappyValley. Ifyou’re interested in witnessing Hong Kong at its rawest and most grasping, entrance to the public enclosure is just $10 with races almost every Wednesday. Otherwise, enquire at HKTB about their "Come Horse-racing Tour" ($490), which includes transortation to and from the track, entry to the Members’ Enclosure and a buffet meal at the official Jockey Club - and tips on how to pick a winner. Happy Valley can be reached from Central or Causeway Bay on a spur of the tramline, or on bus #l from Central.

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