Restaurants

Eating is an enormously large part of life ill Hong Kong, and restaurant dining in particular is a sociable, fanfily affair. The authentic Chinese restaurants an large, noisy places where dining takes place under bright lights - not as discreet as the candle-lit ambiences so beloved in the West but much more fun. Don’t be intimidated by the speed with which you will be rushed to your seat: serviceis brisk as a rule. Menus in all but the cheapest restaurants should be ii1 English as well as Chinese (although you many not get the full menu translated, and prices have also been known to vary between the two versions). In the very cheap noodle-and-dumpling shops, order by’ pointing at other people’s dishes. The busiest, brightest restaurants of all are often those serving dim sum for breakfast or lunch - snack-sized portions of savoury dumplings, rolls and bum served in bamboo baskets or on small plates from trolleys which are pushed around the restaurant. In these places you simply request items from passing trolleys, and a card on your table will be marked with the item. Keep picking things up until you are full and the bill will rarely come to $100 per head.

Eating in ChungKing Mansions

African Food Palace Floor 11, Block E. Tasty African dishes in a friendly place.

Delhi Club Floor 3, C Block. A curry house par excellence, once you ignore the spartan surroundings and slap-down service. The ludicrously cheap set meal would feed an army.

Khyber Pass Floor 7, E Block. Consistently good food. with friendly and efficient service. One of the best in Chungking Mansions.

Sher-E-Punjab Floor 3, B Block. Excellent food with friendly service in clean surroundings. Slightly more expensive than some of its neighbours.

Taj Mahal Club Floor 3, B Block. Excellent Indian food and good value if you avoid the relatively expensive drinks.

it’s worth trying seasonal dishes: abalone, garoupa and dried seafood in March-May; melon greens, mushrooms and beancurd fi’om June to August;green, giant, soft-shell and hairy crabs between September and November; and casseroles and hotpots from December to February.

The largest concentration of restaurants in Hong Kong Island is probably in the Wan Chai-Happy Valley area ,bordering on Causeway Bay. The streets around D’Aguilar Street in Central, just a couple of minutes’ walk south fi-om the MTK, are particularly popular with young people and yuppie expatriates. This area is known as Lan Kwai Fong, after the small lane branching off D’Aguilar Street to the east, which is chock-a-block with bars and restaurants.The newest restaurant area is known as SoHo, meaning South of Hollywood Road. In fact, expansion means it now starts at Lyndhurst Terrace, and clusters around the Mid-Levels escalator as Far up the slope as Mosque Street. Restaurants here come and go very quickly, but in general they tend to be rather less flashy and more civilized than in Lan Kwai Fong, and the clientle isa mix of the more cosmopolitan locals and expats. On the south side of the island, Stanley and Aberdeen are also popular spots for tourists on dining excursions; while, in the New Territories Sai Kung, Cheung Chau and LeiYueMun are famous for their seafood restaurants.

In Kowloon, the choice of eateries is hardly less than on the island, though watch out for the possibility of tourist rip-otTs in the Chinese restaurants in the Tsim Sba Tsui area, such as heavy charges on unasked-for side dishes. For lndian food, many of the best-value places are secreted away in the recesses of Chungking Mansions, 36-44 Nathan Road (see box opposite). Opening hours are long, to accommodate the long working day, and while many of the traditional Chinese restaurants start to wind down around 9.30pm, you’ll have no trouble getting served something late. Don’t worry too much about tipping either. Expensive restaurants will add on their own service charge, usually ten percent, while in cheaper places it’s customary just to leave the small change. Generally prices are comparable to those in the West: a full dinner without drinks is unlikely to cost less than $100 per head, and that figure can climb to $500 or more in the plushest venues. We have included phone numbers where booking is advisable.

Jumbo Floating Restaurant Shun Wan Pier,Aberdeen Harbour (82553 9111, www.jumbo.com.hk. This famous floating restuurant serves dim sum from breakfast on wards, as does its neighbouring sister ship, the Jumbo Palace. Their lights shining on the water are one of Hong Kong’s night-time landmarks. shuttle boats carry customers to and from the quuyside Unfortunately both restaurants are now horriblytourisLy, and the food quality reflects that few locals eat there. Daily 7am-5pm. Buses #70 or #75 from Admiralty bus terminal.

Central
2Sardines 43 Elgin St, SoHo 82973 6618. Small restuurant which has built itself a big reputation for reiable, reasonably priced French food. Aqua 49 Hollywood Rd, Central 2545 9889. A sumtuously elegant, colonial-style restaurant,Great Basement, SEIBU, Pacific Place. A top-notch deli and supermarket, fast-food joint and restaurant rolled into one, Great offers Korean, Thai, Cantonese, Japanese and Italian dishes, freshly made and at very reasonable prices.

Luk Yu Tea House 24-26 Stanley St, just west of D’Aguilar St 2523 5464. A living museum with spittoons, sixty-year-old furniture and geriatric waiters, this is possibly the most atmospheric restaurant in Hong Kong. Tea and dim sum as well as full meals are available, though the prices are somewhat tourist-inflated. The service is also authentically brusque and reservations are essential.

M at the Fringe 2 Lower Albert Rd, Central 82877 4000, www.m-atthefringe.com. Stylish,high-priced restaurant much favoured by the glitterati for its boldly flavoured, health-conscious dishes - meat, fish and veggie - whose influences range the world.

Man Wah Floor 25, Mandarin Oriental Hotel, 5 Connaught Rd, Central 82522 0111. Superb Cantonese food at connoisseurs’ prices, and offering a beautiful view. You might also want to try the Clipper Lounge for afternoon tea or the famous Mandarin Grill.

Pasta e Pizza Basement, 11 Lyndhurst Terrace. Cheap and cheerful Italian-ish joint-ideal for a good-value set lunch after trawling the shops and stalls around Hollywood Road.

The Peak Lookout 121 Peak Rd 82849 1000. For years this has been the place to dine on the Peak, and remains in traditional colonial style, South-facing views from the terrace are superb, and the food, with an Asian-indian slant, is still reasonable value for brunch, or al fresco dining at night; reckon on around $200 per head for a full meal.

Sherpa Himalayan Coffee Shop 11 Staunton St, SoHo 82973 6886. Friendly restaurant with an interesting range of dishes, and beers to go with them. Food is good and inexpensive, and both vegetarians and chilli addicts will find something to suit. If they send you over the road to another restaurant, don’t worry, it’s the same management and kitchen.

SoHo SoHo 9 Old Bailey St, Central 82147 2618. Excellent Modern British cooking offering traditional ingredients with a twist. The menu changes regularly, according to what is fresh in the markets. Friendly staff. The set lunch is very reasonably priced at $95 for two courses. Regular comedy nights.

Thai Basil Pacific Place, 88 Queensway 2537 4682. In addition to 23 Asian-inspired ice creams,this offers deftly prepared modern Thai cuisine, at HkTB’s gold with distinction award for perfect dim sum- especially the shrimp dumplings, egg tarts,spring rolls and steamed barbecue buns. Worth a splurge if you don’t mind parting with well over $100 a head.

Felix Floor 28, Peninsula Hotel 2315 3188. This possibly ranks as Hong Kong’s most exclusive restaurant. The restaurant was designed by philippe Starck, and the incredible views of HongKong Island in themselves warrant a visit here. The food is Eurasian and understandably expensive, but you can just come for a Martini ,or try the early-bird menu (orders between 6 and 7pm) at $350-380 per head for three courses.

Great Shanghai 26 Prat Ave 2366 8158. One 0fibs most reliable of Hong Kong’s Shanghai restaurants, with well-presented food (fine fish and seafood) served in small or large portions. A good choice for a first Shanghai meal.

Jade Garden Floor 4, Star House, 3 Salisbury Rd, by the Star Ferry Pier 82730 6888. Part of the Maxim chain, serving dim sum, with harbour views. There’s another branch, also with reasonable dim sum, at 25-31 Camarvon Rd 2369 8311.

Macau Restaurant Ground Floor, 119-127 Parkee St, Jordan MTR 2270 9166. Dirt cheap, authentic Macanese cooking; packed out at lunchtime with local workers and office staff.

Mint 122-126 Canton Rd 2735 5887. Reasonably priced Australian grub. Although lamb and seafood are their specialities, it’s worth trying thefourteen-course set dinner, sluiced down with cocktail and Ozzie wine.

Peking Restaurant 227 Nathan Rd, Jordan MTR 27301316. Just north of the main Tsim Sha Tsui area. Don’t be put off by the fairly glum decor:Ihisplace serves some of the best Belling food in Hong Kong. The Belling duck is particularly good.

Peninsula Hotel Lobby Peninsula Hotel 2366 6251.The set tea served in the lobby and accompuu[ed by a string quartet comes to around $150 plusten percent service. As well as a lot of food,you also get a chance to hang out in the most beautiful lobby in Hong Kong, serenaded by live music. lt’s a good way to get a glimpse of a more elegant, eivilized and relaxed Hong Kong.

Ruth’s Chris Steak House Ground Floor, Empire Centre68 Mody Rd; also at Ground Floor, Lippo Centre ,
Admiralty. Fab sauces accompany luscious matured US steaks for a carnivorous meal out.

Spring Deer First Floor, 42 Mody Rd 2723 3673. Long-established place noted for its barbeoued Peking duck (carved at the table), among a benage of authentic dishes such as shark’s fin and baked fish on a hot plate. Try the smoked chicken, and the bean curd with minced pork. style surroundings and staff who will help you get the best out of the extensive menu - the curries and spicy eggplant are great

Ivy Chinoise 4 Sun Wui Road 3162 3922. Cantonese cuisine with a Western spin, by a chef known as the King of Cookery, in an attractive, understated room.

Next Generation Cuisine Ground Floor, 478 Lockhart Rd, Causeway Bay 82911 0119. Luscious Modern Cantonese cooking. The chicken poached in superior soy sauce scooped the HKTB’s Best of the Best award.

Cafe Deco Level 1 & 2, 118 Peak Rd, The Peak 82849 5111. Superbly located restaurant with unrivalled views and a stylish Art Deco interior that extends to the rest rooms. The menu ranges over gourmet pizzas, curries, Thai noodles, grilled meats and oysters; prices, surprisingly, are not too high, and the portions are vast. Or just call in for a drink, or cake and coffee; the bar stays open an hour or so after the kitchen closes (around 11.30pm), and there’s often live jazz. Book if you want window seats.

Dan Ryan’s Chicago Grill 114 Pacific Place, 88 Qoeensway; Shop 200 Ocean Termaioal, Tsim Sha Tsui; L2-28 Festival Walk, Kowloon Tong. American restaurant serving classic breakfasts at weekends (Sat & Sun 7.30-1 lam) - plus mammoth steaks, salads and pasta in American-size portions.around $50-75 a dish, and a casual-chic atmosphere. Booking advised unless you want to queue for twenty minutes.

Veda 8 Arbuthnot Rd, Central 2868 5885. HongKong’s first contemporary indian eatery, replete with up stairs restaurant, ground-floor lounge and basement wine cellar.The creative, fresh dishes are wildly populan

Yung Kee 32-40 Wellington St, on the corner with D’Agoilar St. An enormous place with bright lights,
scurrying staff and seating for a thousand, this is one of Hong Kong’s institutions. Roast meats are a
speciality, and the dim sum is also good. Highly recommended for the prize-winning seafood dishes, too.

Shek O
Shek o Chinese Thai Seafood Shek O, Onthe way from the main bus stop to the seafront, Laid, hack atmosphere with outdoor tables under a trellis, The food here is excellent. The perfect place for lunch if you are on a day trip to Shek O.

Stanley and Repulse Bay
The Boathouse 86-88 Stanley Main St 82813 4467.Very popular and stylish hang-out in a snazzy waterfront house; booking essential.

The Curry Pot Floor 6, 9OB Stanley Main St, Vet friendly little restaurant with ocean views from its
sixth-floor windows and delicately judged indian food from all regions. The set lunch is remarkable value, but you can’t go wrong choosing ,la carte either.

El Cid Caramar 102, Murray House, Stanley;also 14 Knutsford Terrace, Tsim Sba Tsui 2312 Tapas, fine wines, luscious paella and seafood in one of Hong Kong’s best Spanish restaurant, wich spills out onto the colonnaded balcony wrapped around colonial Murray House.

Thai Thai Floor 5, 90B Stanley Main St. Friendly Thai restaurant, which also does takeaways. The Verandah The Repulse Bay, 101 Repulse Bay Rd 2812 2722. Pricey, but the perfoct place for a splurge, romantic dinner or indolent Sunday brunch. Jazz, candlelight and views across the bay in a mock-colonial retreat.

Tsim Sha Tsui Au Trou Normand B Carnarven Rd 823668754, A fine place to escape the hustle of Hong Kong if you want to imagine yourself in rural France for a night. For a good dinner with wine reckon on $200-300 per head.

Celestial Court Chinese Restaurant Level 2, Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel and Towers, 20 Nathan Rd 2369 1111, ext. 3991-2. The winner of Tang Court First Floor, Great Eagle Hotel, 8 Peking Rd 2375 1133, ext 2250. This seafood restaurant offers splendid prawn and crab dishes; it’s not the cheapest but the cooking is extraordinarily good ask for sauteed prawns with pork and crab meat puffs.

Tutto Bene 7 Knutsford Terrace 2316 2116.Located on a small lane just north of Kimberly Road, off the main tourist beat, this is a popular expatriate hangout. Good Italian food in a pleasant atmosphere, with tables spread out on the pavement.

Wan Chai and Causeway Bay Banana Leaf Curry House 440 Jaffe Rd, Wan Chai. One of a number of branches of this highly popular Malaysiao-Singaporean restaurant, offerlng great mild curries full of cream and coconut.
Chee Kee Wonton Noodle Shop Ground Floor, 52 Russell St, Causeway Bay. Noodles are a HongKong speciality; this Iow-key haunt serves some of the best wonton noodles in town.

The Chilli Club 88 Lockhart Rd, Wan Chai 82527 2872. A shade too popular for its own good these days, full of in-the-know gweilos, the Chilli Club continues to knock out splendid meals on the spicy side. Rooking ahead - especially at night is wise. Fook Lam Moon 35-46 Johnston Rd, Wan Chai 2866 0663. One of the best places in HongKong, if not the world, to eat Cantonese food.Expensive.

Genki Sushi Around thirty branches across HongKong, including 376 Lockhart Rd, Wan Chai; 22 Stanley St, Central; 733 Nathan Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui.Efficient chain of restaurants offering one of the cheapest ways to eat Japanese food. Either take away by ticking items on a form, or sit inside picklng up dishes from a conveyor belt. Portions of any sushi are around $15-20 each.

Golden Bauhinia Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre, Golden Bauhinia Square 82582 7728. Award-winning dim sum and poultry-based dishes especially the roast chicken with garlic sauce - cheek by jowl with the conference centre.

The Graces Restaurant Floor 29, Lee Theatre Plaza ,99 Percival St, Causeway Bay 2882 1889.A few minutes’ walk from Times Square, this vast and airy eatery has views over Causeway Bay and is always packed to the gunwales with Chinese families hovering up good dim sum, rice, noodle and seafood dishes. Booking essential at weekends.

Indonesian 26 Leighton Rd, Causeway Bay 82577 9981. Recommended place with canteen Vegi-Food Kitchen 8 Cleveland St, Causeway Bay. On a small street a couple of blocks east of Paterson Street at its northern end .The sign informing customers not to “bring meat of any kind into this restaurant” says it all. Classy, strictly vegetarian Chinese food.

Wo Lung Congee and Wonton Noodle Shop 49-51 Lee Tung St, Wan Chai 2893 7721. Not the poshest place on the block, but one that proffers perfect dumplings, congee (like soupy porridge with savoury items sprinkled in) and noodles Closed on public holidays.

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