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northeast the Wong Tar SinTemple (daily 7am-5.30pm; small donation expected), a huge, thrivingTaoist,
Buddhist and Confucian temple that’s packed with more worshippers than ally other in Hong Kong. Big, bright and colourful, it’s interesting for a glimpse into the practices of modern, popular Chinese religion: vigorous kneding,incense burning and the noisy rattling of joss sticks in canisters, as well as the presentation of food and drink to the Taoist deities. Large numbers of fortunetellers, some of whom speak English, have stands to the right of the entrance and charge around $200 for palm-reading, about half that for a face-reading.The temple can be reached directly from theWongTai Sin MTR station,using
exit B. Northwest from Mongkok, in the opposite direction from Wong Tar Sin, are a couple of places worth a visit. The Lei Cheng Uk Branch Museum (Mon-Wed, Fri & Sat 10am-lpm & 2-6pm, Sun 1-6pm; flee), part of the main Museum of History, has been constructed over a two-thousand-year-o1d Han-dynasty tomb which was unearthed by workmen in 1955. By far the o1dest structure discovered in Hong Kong, the tomb offers some rare proof of the ancient presence of the Chinese in the area. What is really interesting, however, is to compare photos of the site from the 1950s (paddy fields and green hills)with the high-rises that surround the area today. You can reach the museum from Chang ShanWan MTR; take exit A2, walk for five minutes along Tonkin Street and the museum is on your left. Further afield, Kowloon also boasts the Chi Lin Nunnery, five minutes’walk from exit 2 of the Diamond Hill MTR (daily 9am-3.30pm, free; gardens 6.30am-7pm, flee; however, small donation expected). Constructed according to traditional Chinese methods, this elegant wooden temple was built without nails inTang-dynasty style and features pavilions, flower gardens and seven hahs over a 30,000 square metre area.
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