Some way to the north of Clear Water Bay, the irregularly shaped Sai Kung Peninsula, jagged with headlands, bluffs and tiny offshore islands, is the least developed area in the whole of Hong Kong, and a haven for hikers and beach lovers.
The only sizeable town in the area, Sai Knng Town, accessible on bus #92 from Diamond Hill MTR, lies slightly to the south of the peninsula but is nev- ertheless the jumping-off point for explorations of Sai Kung. It’s now being developed fairly fast, though it still retains some of the pleasant features ofa fishing town, with a promenade packed with seafood restaurants and fishermen offering their fairly exotic wares, plus additional seafood restaurants, arts and crafts shops, cafes and bars on bustling Sai Kung Hoi Pong Square. Small boats also run from the quayside to the various islands, the nearest and most popu- lar of which is Kiu Tsui Chau (or Sharp Island), boasting a beach and a short hike to its highest point, although Tai Long Wan is also clean, quiet and beau- tiful.
The highlights of Sai Kung, however, are the country parks that cover the peninsula with virgin forest and grassland leading to perfect sandy beach,, where you can even go snorkelling. Although it is possible to see sometbing0f these on a day-trip, the best way really to appreciate them is to bring a test, rent a junk for the day with a group of friends,join an HKTB junk tour ($350 a day) or consider staying at the youth hostel on Sai Kung (see “Accommodation”, p.723). Access to the parks is by bus #94 from Sai Kung Town and #961k (Sundays only) from Diamond Hill MTP,., which pass through Pak Tarn Chung on their way to Wong Shek pier in the north ofthe peninsula. Buses depart once an hour during daylight. Don’t come to Pak Tam Chung expecting a town - all you’ll find is a visitors’ centre (daily except Tues 9.30am-4.30pm; 2792 7365), which supplies hikers with maps (some are free) and vital information about the trails.
Of the many possible hikes, the MacLehose Trail, libera]]y dotted with camp sites, heads east from here, circumventing the High Island Reservoir before heading west into the rest of the New Territories. If you want to follow the trail just a part of the way, the beaches at Long Kc, south of the reservoir, and Tai 1 ,ong, to the northeast, are Hong Kong’s finest, though to walk out to them and back fi-om PakTam Chung takes several hours. The last bus back from Pak Tam Chung is at 7.30pm.
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