In some ways, the part of Kowloon north of the tourist ghetto of Tsim Sha Tsui is more rewarding to walk around, with more authentic Chinese neigh bourhoods and interesting markets. Yau Ma Tel, whose name, meaning “Place of Sesame Plants”, rather belies its present appearance, is jammed with high- rise tenements and busy streets. The area begins north of Jordan Road, and most of the interest lies in the streets to the west of Nathan Road. You can walk up here fromTsim ShaTsui in about twenty minutes, otherwise take the MTR or, ifyou’re coming from Central, take the cross-harbour ferry to the Jordan Road Ferry Pier.
Temple Street, running north off Jordan Road a couple of blocks west of Nathan Road, becomes a fun-packed night market after around 7pm every day, although the market actually opens in the early afternoon. As well as shop- ping for cheap clothing, watches, CDs, tapes and souvenirs, you can get your fortune told here, eat some great seafood from street stalls, and sometimes lis- ten in on impromptu performances of Chinese opera. A nfinute or two to the north of here is the local Tin Hun Temple, just off Nathan Road, rocked away between Public Square Street and Market Street, a couple of minutes south of Jordan MTR. Surrounded by urban hubbub, this old little temple devoted to the sea sits in a small concreted park, usually teanfing with old men, playing mahjong under the banyan trees. East of the Tin Hau Temple, just under the Gascoigne Road flyover at the junction of Kansu and Battery streets, the Jade Market (daily 9am-6pm) has 450 stalls in two different sections offering an amazing variety of items fi’om souvenir trinkets to family heirloomas in jade, crystal, quartz and other stones - it’s another good place for a browse. Nearby onTung Choi Street, between Argyle Street and Dundas Street, is the Ladies Market, flogging piles of cheap clothes, jewellery, toys and bags between noon and 10.30pm every day.
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