on the south side of Gulou jie are a couple of’least-food places, such as Dicos, which has decent coffee. For dumplings, don’t miss the Gulou jiaozi Guan in the restored wood structure at the corner of’ Gulou Jie and Nan Shudian fie. In terms of’location, this is probably China’s prettiest dumpling shop and, though its sterile, white-tiled interior may not look like much, people-watching out oF the windows is great, as are the plump dt dumplings. The restaurant in the kaifeng hotel is pretty good, and opposite the hotel, a little farther west on Ziyou Lth the Number one Restaurant is fairly inex- pensive with reasonable food, but the decor, with chickens trussed up just inside the door and empty aquariums, could be improved. The swanky Shao’s Huang restaurant, at 2I4 Zhongshan Lu, is where tile local elite hang out. There’s no English menu, but you can select a variety of’vegetable, fish and meat dishes fi’om the display downstairs; expect to pay RMB80 for a meal for two. A traditional Chinese ensemble plays nightly at the Diyi lou Restaurant, 43 Sihou fie; dinner flor two with drinks should come to around RMB60.

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