Travel agents Staff in the CITS office on 56 Ziyou Lu (0378/5666456) can be reluctant to help- your reception seems to depend on how much or how little you’re willing to spend. They offer one- and twa-day tours, self train tickets (RMB40 sur- charge) and have a free map in English that is pretty inaccurate. It’s east past the Kaifeng Hotel head up an alley leading north and lined with tradesmen advertising their services - the office will 20m on your right.

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