Restaurants

Caigenxiang Dieshan Lu. Mock-antique restaurant with dark wooden furniture and huge frosted glass front. Authentically spicy Sichuanese cuisine but not too expensive, with mains such as strange-flavoured chicken around RMB35.

Fengwei Xiaochi Cheng Shengli Lu. Bustling dumpling house, one of several in the area. You order from the range of plastic cards behind the cashier, or point to whatever others are eating. Individual clay-pot casseroles, cold meats, buns and vegetables from around RMB5 a serving.

Fukuoka Japanese Zhongshan Lu. Relatively expensive, with most dishes RMB30 or more, but very good - the vegetable tempura or norimaki rolls are best.

Guhan Feng Western end of Zhongshan Lu. Another modernized “olde worlde” restaurant with reproduction Ming crockery and heavy chairs, this time specializing in local cuisine. Separate snacktearoom and proper sit-down dining area.

Jiangnan Fandian Bayi Dadao. The big bronze cauldron standing outside marks this down as a Jiangxi-styie soup restaurant, and you realty need about three people to cope with the generously sized pot which gets delivered to your table forthe diners to ladle out their own portions. Around RMB30 a pot.

Hao Xiang Lai Minde Lu. Good-value, sizzling pepper steaks for RMB25; also trolleyfuls of delicious Chinese snacks, biscuits and dumplings wheeled around dim sum-style from RMB2 a plate. One of the few places in town with an English menu.

Hunan Wangcai Guan Supu Lu. Popular, mid-range hotpot restaurant with front window overlooking Bayi Park.

Xiangcancun Minde Lu. Inexpensive three-storey canteen and restaurant where you can tuck in with the local crowds.

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