Travel agents CITS, 40 Xinmin Lu (daily 8am-noon & 3-5.30pm; 0771/2804960, 2806025, citsgx@public.nn.gx.cn). A whole courtyard full of CITS offices; try and track down Ms Zhou Run Ling, who speaks some Englishand works upstairs in the building ahead of you os you walk in off the street. Two-day Zuo River trips- including all transport, accommodation, food anda visit to Hua Shan’s rock art - are RMB500 per person you’ll have to negotiate if you want an interpreter too. Vietnamese visas arranged through the cen. sulate in Guangzhou cost RMB480 and take ten work. lng days, or RMB650 and five days; you’ll need to prO vide a passport and passport photo.

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