The Qingdao Museum constructed in 1931 on Daxue Lu was originally a welfare institute, the headquarters of the benign but sinister-sounding Red Swastika Association. There’s a collection of paintings from the Yuan through to Qing dynasties, and an archeological section in the courtyard which contains four large standing Buddhas dating to 500-527 AD. They are slim, striking figures with bulbous, smiling heads, one hand pointing upward to heaven, the other down to the earth. The heads were cut off in 1928 by the Japanese, and taken away to museums in Japan. They’ve now been restored to their rightful shoulders and you can hardly see the join.

