BEIDAIHE is a seaside resort on the Bohai Gulf, 300km east of Beijing, which was originally patronized by European diplomats, missionaries and businessmen around the turn of the century. After the Communist takeover, the village became a pleasure resort for Party bigwigs, reaching its height of popularity in the 1970s.

Though you still see serious men in uniform, these days most of Beidaihe’s visitors are ordinary, fun-loving tourists, usually well-heeled Beijingers. In season, when the temperature is steady around the mid-20s Centigrade and the water warm, it’s noisy.

Of the three beaches, Middle Beach, really many small beaches with rocky outcrops in between, is the most convenient and popular. West Beach is more of the same, but a little quieter. The beach is long enough for you to be able to find a spot where you can be alone. At low tide its wide expanse is dotted with seaweed collectors in rubber boots.

At the beach’s western tip is Pigeon Nest Park, a twenty-meter-high rocky outcrop named after the seagulls fond of perching here. It’s a popular spot for watching the sunrise.

Transportation: Train from Beijing (5hrs), Shenyang (5hrs), Tianjin (4hrs), Shanhaiguan (1hr) and Qinhuangdao (30mins.) are available. There are minibuses connecting Beidaihe, Shanhaiguan, and Qinhuangdao. Public transportation is available on bus No.5 (Beidaihe Railway Station to the Middle Beach), and buses No.3&4 from Beidaihe to Shanhaiguan (Stops at Qinhuangdao in the way).

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