About lkm west of the train station, down Yingze Dajie, past numerous hotels and restaurants, you’ll find Wuyi Square, a concrete plaza marked by a huge sculpture of a man playing a flute, a deer and a woman with pneumatic breasts, that is lit up in fluorescent green at night. Just west of here, the City Museum (daily 9am-noon & 2.30-6.30pm; RMB5) is housed in a grand Ming temple complex, the Chunyanggong, that has seen better days. Once a place to offer sacrifices to the laoist deity Lu Dongbin, the charming complex of small, multistorey buildings, accessible by steep stairways off small courtyards, seems ill-stated to its present function of housing a motley collection of stuffed birds and animals. There’s even a couple of desiccated human specinaens pickled in Formaldehyde, whose internal organs are kept in separate cases. Best are the rooms at the back, which contain some fine examples of Buddhist statuary in bronze and stone, some of’ which is Sui in origin, though mostly Ming or Qing. Many of the statues have donations of paper money stuffed into the cracks between the panes of glass in their display cases, suggesting a popular resurgence of the building’s original function. The many images of warriors and of GuanYu, god of war, hint at the martial preoccupations of the city’s pre- vious inhabitants.

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