There are two sites in western Tibet where you can still see the ruins of the famous and mysterious Guge Kingdom, known for its patronage of Tibetan Buddhism throughout Tibet’s history. The sites are the Tholing Monastery in Zhada County town (also known as Zanda) and the Tsaparang Guge Kingdom Ruins, 20km west of Zanda.

The mystery at the core of the Guge Kingdom is the history of their downfall. Originally a peaceloving and Buddhist state, their kingdom fell into ruin in the 17th century. The problem is that historians don’t quite know how. Historians theorize that the Guge Kingdom was invaded by a neighboring state (thought to be modern Kashmir), however, there are caches of weapons at Tsaparang Ruins. Nor are their signs of war. It is as if the people just disappeared over a matter of months.

But what they left behind is priceless. Their love for Buddhism and art prompted them to decorate their kingdom with Buddhist and Tantric wall murals that are still in extremely good condition. Other Buddhist treasures include Buddhist scriptures written in gold and silver as well as numerous stupa (small towers used in Tibet as burial tombs or for storage of holy Buddhist scriptures). The Guge ruins also include caves filled with Buddhist statues and murals.

Walking along the small path at the foot of the hill, you should pass various monastic ruins. To examine the inner wonders, you’ll have to ask the caretakers to open the doors. There are many wonderfully rich murals within the monasteries, some even still bear gold detail today. The most common themes are Buddhist and Tantric gods and symbols, but you will also find many murals that present the daily life and the people of the Guge state.

How to get there: To get to the Tholing Monastery in Zanda (or Zhada), proceed to Mensi (Moincer), near the Tirthpuri Hot Springs, then on to Songshan, there turning west to Zanda. The road is very, very treacherous, and any trips should be be discussed fully with your Lhasa tour agency or driver.
To get to Tsaparang, follow the Sutlej valley 20km to the west by automobile.
Cost:There is a RMB100 permit fee to be paid in Lhasa to visit Tholing,and a RMB300 permit fee to visit the ruins at Tsaparang, paid in three parts, one part each in Lhasa, Ali or Darchen, and Tholing