The east end of town has plenty of Chinese-style hotels. However, it’s more fun to try one of the charismatic Tibetan-owned guesthouses farther up the road, which attract a mixed clientele of pilgrims and budget travellers.

Labrang In the fields to the west of the town 09412/21849. It’s 4km from the bus station and nearly lkm from the next nearest building; from the station, a cycle-rickshaw here shouldn’t cost more than about RMB5, though you might have to get off and push for one or two stretches. Easily Xiahe’s best hotel; accommodation ranges from simple three-bed dorms with bath, through plain doubles to rather damp concrete “Tibetan-style” cabins. Prices increase at the height of summer, while in winter the hotel may not be open at all. Dorm beds RMB20, cabins RMB320,

Monastery Guesthouse In the heart of the monastery area, and run by monks who obviously have more important things on their minds than cleaning. Basic rooms with stoves, spartan as any monk’s cell, are arranged around a courtyard. There’s an 11 pm curfew and no hot water.

Tara Guesthouse Signed 50m west of the Tibetan Guesthouse, with its entrance a few doors down in the alley leading off to the south. Some find the eccentric Tibetan staff too much to handle, but it’s a good place: the lovingly decorated rooms have stoves, some have kangs, and there’s a stereo instead of a TV in most. The shower, shared with the Tibetan Guesthouse, is in a separate building a little farther down the alley and costs RMB2.

Tibetan Guesthouse A clean and well-maintained building offering the cheapest dorms in town; the first good place you come to if you head west of the bus station. Dorm beds RMB15,

Youyi Across the road from the bus station and a few minutes’ walk west 009412/21593. Friendly, Chinese-style place. Dorm beds RMB40,

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