As any monk you come across will tell you, Labrang Monastery, founded in 1709, is one of the six largest monasteries of the Geluk order, and the largest monastery in Amdo. Unlike most large religious institutions, it escaped desecration during the Cultural Revolution, although the number of monks and nuns was reduced from over 4,000 to the present number of just over 1,000. The head lama ranks behind only the Dalai Lama and the Panchen Lama, and with the passing away of the sixth incarnate lama (whose stupa rises in the south of the complex), the monastery is in transition. There are colleges for esoteric and exoteric Buddhism, astronomy, mathematics, geography, and medicine. Amdo monks see themselves as the true holders of the faith — looking down on the Khampas and central Tibetans as soldiers and politicians respectively — and the monks take pride in the appearance of their monastery. Stunning thang khas adorn the walls, and many beams and finials are inscribed with sacred and protective script.
The most striking building is the Assembly Hall, with its golden roof. This is a recent addition, as the original burned down in 1985. The museum and a display of frozen butter sculptures — including memorable sculptures of Jiang Zuman and his cronies — are also worth seeking out. English-speaking tours are the only way to gain admission to the monastery; if you arrive late, you’ll find yourself tacked on to a Han tour. Once inside, you’re free to wander. Former British consul Eric Teichman noted the contrast between the monks’ abodes and places of worship: “The temples were the finest and the richest I have visited in China, and the residences of the monks the usual gloomy buildings common to all lamaseries.” Just to the right of the main entrance is the School of Buddhist Studies, where monks are often keen to practice their English.

Relatel information:

1. Xiahe Attractions
2. Xiahe Tours