No records exist of the Terracotta Army (daily 8am-6pm; students , though this is not always honoured) which was set to guard Qin Shi Huang’s tomb, and it was only discovered by peasants sinking a well in 1974.Three rec- tangular vaults were found, built of earth with brick floors and timber supports. Today, hangars have been built over the excavated site so that the ranks of sol diets - designed never to be seen, but now one of the most popular tourist attractions in China - can be viewed in situ. Ifyou feel the guided tour is too expensive, rent an electronic headset at the entrance - the com- mentary covers the same topics, and won’t badger you to stop taking photo- graphs (despite signs to the contrary, everyone uses their cameras, and most staff have ceased trying to police the flashbulbs).
Vault 1
Vault 1 is the largest, and about a fifth of the area has been excavated, reveal- ing more than a thousand figures (out of an estimated eight thousand) ranked in battle formation. Facing you as you enter the hangar, this is one of the most memorable sights in China; you can inspect the static soldiers at closer range via raised walkways. Averaging 1.8m in height, the figures are hollow from the thighs up; head and hands were modelled separately and attached to the mass- produced bodies. Each soldier has different features and expressions and wears marks of rank; some believe that each is a portrait of a real member of the ancient hnperial Guard. Their hair is tied in buns and they are wearing knee- length battle tunics; the figures on the outside originally wore leather armour, now decayed. Traces of pigment show that their dress was once bright yellow, purple and green, though it’s grey now. Originally the troops carried real bows, swords, spears and crossbows, more than ten thousand of which have been found. The metal weapons, made of sophisticated alloys, were still sharp when discovered, and the arrowheads contained lead to make them poisonous.
A central group of terracotta horses is all that remain of a set of chariots. These wore harnesses with brass fittings and have been identified as depicting a breed &om Gansu and Xinjiang. Each has six teeth, an indication that they are in their prime.
vaults 2 and 3
Vault 2 is a smaller, L-shaped area, stilI under excavation; it’s thought to hold more warriers than Vault 1.The four groups here - crossbowmen, charioteers, cavalry and infantry - display more variety of posture and uniform than the figures iii the main vault, though a large number of smashed and broken fig- ures make the scene look more like the aftermath ora battle than the prepara- tion for one. Four exceptional fgures found here are exhibited at the side: a kneeling archer, a cavalrymau leading a horse, an officer with a stylish goatee and the magnificent figure of a general, 2m tall, wearing engraved armour and a cap with two tails. Also on show are some of the weapons found at the site, including a huge bronze battle-axe.
The much smaller vault 3, where 68 figures and a chariot have been found, seems to have been battle headquarters. Armed with ceremonial sbu, a short bronze mace with a triangular head, the figures are not in battle formation but form a guard of honour. Animal bones found here provide evidence of ritual sacrifices, which a real army would have performed before going into battle. A photo exhibition of plaster replicas gives some idea of how the figures would have been painted.
The rest of the site
At the side of vault 2 is a small museum where two naagnificent bronze chariots, found in 1982 near Qin Shi Huang’s tomb, are displayed in glass cases. They’re about halfactual size. The fi-ont one, depicting the hnperial Fleet leader’s chariot, has four horses and a driver, and is decorated with dragon, phoenix and cloud designs, with a curved canopy and a gold-and- silver har- ness. Behind the driver is a large compartment featuring a silver door-latch and windows that open and close. The chariot at the back was the emperor’s and has seats and beds in the rear. Both chariots were made with astonishing atten- tion to detail; even the driver’s knuckles, nails and fingerprints are shown. Another museum holds small artefacts found around the area, including a skull with an arrowhead still embedded in it, and a few kneeling pottery attendants, the Only female figures 
depicted.
The complex around the Terracotta Army is a tourist circus, with a souvenir city 0findustrial proportions; the most popular goods are postcards and slides, as you are not allowed to take pictures inside the halls. They also sell nfiniature ternc0tta figures, fnr coats and folk crafts. The food is diabolical, and it’s best to eat before you go. The shops inside the hails sell souvenirs ofslighdy better quality, including full-size terracotta figures 0f36,000). At times you’ll find a bemused-looking peasant signing postcards in the shop at Vault 2. Supposedly, it’sYang Zhifa, the man who discovered it all in 1974.
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