Eating

The hotels all have restaurants in keeping with their facilities, and there’s a knot of cafes and bars around the Xining Guest Hotel on Qiyi Lu. Also near here, on Changjiang Lu, Zangjia Ju is a Tibetan restaurant, which puts on evening shows of Tibetan dancing. For Muslim food, there’s a canteen near the bus station, and a large and authentic place across from the mosque on Dongguan Dajie, full of old men sipping tea and chewing their way through lamb and noodle dishes. If you’re after vaguely Western fare, head for the branch of Dico’s Burgers on the Ximen intersection.
The best places to eat in Xining, however, are the markets downtown; staples here are kebabs , bowls of spicy noodles, mutton hotpots and zasui soup, made with ox and sheep entrails. Shaguo - earthenware hotpots full of tofu, mushrooms and meat cooked in broth- are excellent, as are jiaozi, hundun soup and other basic dishes prepared on the spot. The covered market, Shuijing Gang (see p.1058), is a good place to head to, as are many of the side streets
around Da Shizi.

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