Accommodation is available at the four-star Yan’an Binguan’on Yan’an lu (0911/2113122; ), in the centre of town just south of the river’s fork, whose uncompronaising facade belies a cosy interior. It’s on the river’s western bank, a short walk south of the bridge. A cheaper alternative is the austere con crete Yan’anJiaoji Binguan(0911/2113862; ), which is 3km north of the train station on Zhongxin Jie and has triples with shared bath as well as dou- bles. Other hotels around town may take foreigners; business has been bad of late. Forget about shopping or nighdife; even eating out presents problems if you want anything more sophisticated than a bowl of noodles. Your best bets are probably the restaurant in the Yah’an Binguan or the Sichuan dumpling shops along Zhongxin Jie.

 

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