Cafes and restaurarts

Drifters Cafe Xi Jie. Excellent apple pie, good mapo doufu, and possibly the best muesli, yoghurt and fruit breakfast in town. Service can be slack, though.

Le Votre Xi Jie. Yangshuo’s poshest dining, inside a Ming-era building complete with period furnishings. Food is French - snails, pat6, onion soup, ateak au poivre, chocolate mousse - or Chinese seafood. Also, excellent coffee and croissants for breakfast. Expect to pay at least RMB50 a head.

Lisa’s and Susanna’s Near to each other on XiJie. Two cosy, perennially popular backpacker joints. Cheap food ranges from Western to decent Chinese dishes along the lines of sweet-and-sour pork, stuffed bean curd and fried beansprouts.

Lizard Lounge and Karst Cafe Xian Qian Jie. Two climber-oriented cafe-bars with an average run of Chinese and Western staples and good opportunities to make contacts.

No Name Cafe Xi Jie. Excellent pizza and bread, along with Italian-style fare.

Rosewood Cafe Just off Xi Jie. Romantic ambience and extensive Western menu covering pizza, pasta, grills and salads. Have their duck in brandy sauce followed by a mango-sago pudding, and you’ll forgive China for all its problems. Two can eat well for RMB100.

Si Hai Xi Jie. Toasted sandwiches, bamboo rats, vegetarian hotpots, and excellent beer-battered fish. The walls are plastered with Mao photos and Cultural Revolution iconography. Under the Moon Xi Jie. Almost chie place, with nicely styled upstairs dining room with balcony, and slightly over-large first-floor cafe with the best street tables in town. Good Western and Chinese food - their lemon sorbet is excellent.

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