Yantai’s hotel situation is not good; we’ve listed the best of the places to sta below. The city is popular with Chinese tourists and there are many small guesthouses, but many of the cheaper places are not open to foreigners. The two best restaurants in town are the ones at the Yantai Marina Hotel on Binhai Lu. Here you can try the seafood stew while averting your eyes from the middle-aged cadres dining with dates young enough to be their daughters. East of here, there are many Korean and dumpling restaurants opposite the train station.

Gangcheng 72 Beima LU0535/6283888. Tucked off the main road in front of the train sta- tion, beside the pest office and its hotel. Rooms here are showing their age, but they are cheap and clean. On the downside, note that the place is decidedly seedy - avoid taking phone calls late at night, as these may well be from massage girls who base themselves here. Beds from RMB30.

International Trade Hotel 303 Nan Dajie 0535/6217888. A striking new 28-storey tower that looks more expensive than it is. It has all the usual flash amenities, and there’s even a bowling alley.

Shandong Pacific Hotel 74 Shifu Jie 0535/6206888, 6205204, A four-star option situated in a bustling neighborhood; staff are very friendly and speak some English.

Yantai Marina Hotel 128 Binhai Bei Lu 0535/6669999, 6669770. The top choice in Yantai, overlooking the ocean on the scenic drive.

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